Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Key West - Paradise at the end of the road


Key West, Mile Marker 0, you've arrived at the end of the road, as far south as you can go in the US. Key West conjures up images of rum drinks, Hemingway, many-toed cats, roosters and Jimmy Buffett. It is all of that and so much more.



The Keys are a chain of islands that hang out at end of Florida. They are known for many things; fishing, snorkeling, sailing, boat races, all manner of water sports and activities. I never do any of that. Let's just say that I'm there for the OTHER things Key West is known for, fun and sun.


Key West is home to the Southern most point in the US. They have a big marker pointing that out. A very popular tourist attraction that features prominently in many vacation pictures. Taking your picture with the Southern Most Point marker is like a Key West visitors right of passage. We've done it and when you get there, you will too.


Key West is also known for its Sunset celebration. Yes, the wonderful folks of Key West celebrate the sunset with a crazy, quirky party. Folks gather on the docks at Mallory Square and watch street performers, sip drinks and wait for the sun to set. How can you not love this? Drinks, sunset, cats jumping through flaming hoops? What's not to love?





The island's history covers everything from pirates to politicians, treasure hunters to famous writers and everything in-between. A colorful past that lends an air of mystery and the exotic to this little corner of paradise. Where else can you walk in the footsteps of pirates and presidents, authors and smugglers, artists and crazy eccentrics? You can here, and we love it.



Key West has always been home and refuge to a motley, and not so motley crew of visitors. It was the location of Harry S Truman's winter White House and also the home of writer Ernest Hemingway. To this day Ernest Hemingway is celebrated with a festival in July called, what else, Hemingway Days. Sloppy Joe's bar, said to be a favorite hangout of Hemingway, holds a Papa look alike contest. No need to blame one too many rum runners if you see packs of Papa Hemingways making their way around town. You're not seeing things. Tennessee Williams was another literary figure to make frequent visits to Key West. It's said that he wrote the first draft of A Streetcar Named Desire while staying here.


We've visited many times. It's that kind of place, one you want to return to again and again. Each time will be a little different. You can stay in a five star resort or a cute and homey bed and breakfast. No matter where you stay you'll never be too far from a wonderful meal, a fun place to meet people and have a drink or a spot to sit and enjoy the sights and sounds of Key West.





 There are many ways to get around the island. If you stay in the Old Town area and plan to stay there for you visit you won't even need a car. Almost everything is within walking distance in Old Town or just a short cab ride away. You can also rent bicycles, scooters or electric cars (think golf cart not Tesla) to make your way around town. Generally we prefer to stay in Old Town and be in the center of all the action. Duval Street is the main tourist area and is lined with shops, bars, restaurants and galleries.


A nice way to see the sites of Old Town is to take a Conch Train Tour. You'll get a leisurely tour of the area, the tour guides are a fun group and you may learn something.


The New Town area is very nice as well. There are several beautiful resorts located in the area and many have shuttles to Old Town. There is also public transport to the older part of town as well. No matter where you stay, resort or B&B, the people of Key West are warm and knowledgeable and happy to share that knowledge with visitors.

Another very popular area is know as the Bight, also the Historic Seaport. It is located in Old Town and is home to many popular restaurants and bars.







There is a lot of information available about traveling to the keys and Key West. A quick Google search will yield a ton of information on where to stay, what to eat, what to see. A great source of information are the Key West travel forums at Tripadvisor. There are "destination experts" there that are a wonderful resource for all things Key West.

If you plan to visit Key West there are a  few things to keep in mind:

There are a few nice beaches but there aren't long stretches of white sandy beach like in most of the Caribbean. Most of the resorts, if not all, have beautiful pools and a few have nice, small private beaches.
Key West has a reputation as a party town and it is BUT it can be a nice family destination too. Many people travel here every year with children and have a great time. That's the beauty of the island, it offers something for just about everyone.

Key West is a great food town. There are so many great restaurants to choose from. From high end to more affordable you will easily find a great place to eat. The hard part, if you're like us, is that there are only so many meals you can eat in one day. Just walk around, most restaurants have their menus posted. See what looks good, talk to a local, follow the crowds. You'll find a great meal and maybe make some new friends.

Have you been to Key West or other places in the Keys? Are you thinking about visiting or planning a trip? Please share your thoughts below. I'd love to know what you think.

Florida Keys & Key West

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Blue Cobblestones and Pina Coladas - Travels in Old San Juan


Columbus discovered the island of Puerto Rico in 1493. It took us a little longer but eventually we got there too.
After watching a travel show about Puerto Rico we decided we should get there sooner rather than later. Being the designated travel coordinator here I immediately booked a seven day trip to La Isla del Encanto, the enchanted island, Puerto Rico.
There were a few things we wanted to do on our visit; take a walking tour of Old San Juan, visit Barrachina (birthplace of the Pina Colada) and spend some time in Guavate visiting the lechoneras and eating their famous whole roasted pork.



Strolling around Old San Juan you're immediately struck by the bold colors, blue streets and amazing colonial architecture. The houses and commercial buildings are painted in beautiful bold island colors. Just so gorgeous and vibrant. The famous blue cobblestones streets get their color from old ballast stones off of 16th century ships. Ships sailed over from Spain loaded with these stones made from the iron slag of Spanish foundries. Instead of being discarded they were put to use as street pavers and have been in place ever since.





The old San Juan area is filled with tree shaded plazas, restaurants, shops, museums and much more. There are lovely boutiques in which to shop for designer goods side by side with simple restaurants and vendors selling flavored ices out of a street cart. The whole area was named a UNESCO World Heritage sight in 1983.




 

This is also where the San Juan Cathedral is located. A rare New World  example of medieval architecture, the cathedral is the final resting place of famed explorer Ponce de Leon. The church has been located on this spot since 1521 and is the second oldest cathedral in the Western Hemisphere.



 One of the best ways to experience Old San Juan is a guided walking tour. We arranged a walking tour through our hotel. David, our guide, took us all over the old city from the government buildings to the walls of El Moro. David was fun, knowledgeable and entertaining. We had a great morning and would highly recommend a walking tour as part of your stay. Segway tours are also offered. It's on my list of things to do on my next visit.

After all that walking around you'll need to find a place for lunch. Not at all difficult as there are lots of good places to eat. I love to stop at El Parnaso on Calle de Christo. It's a great place to grab a drink and some tacos. Yes, tacos. Not traditional Comida Criolla but very good. Try the local Medalla beer. You'll only find it in Puerto Rico so drink up! Or try the sangria made with rum and brandy. Lets just say that a nap might be in order after lunch.
Definitely try the local cuisine while you're here. One noted place to do so is at El Jibarito located on Calle Sol. They specialize in local Puerto Rican and caribbean food. The food is simple and authentic, worth a stop for sure. Another place for local atmosphere is La Bombonera located on Calle de San Francisco. Established in 1902 it is an Old San Juan icon. Stop in for the mallorcas and coffee.





Puerto Rico is the birthplace of the Pina Colada. The official home of the Pina Colada is Barrachina located on Fortaleza St. Stop in, sit at the bar or at a table on the patio, have a Pina Colada and enjoy the gorgeous courtyard. The food at Barrachina  is good too, so maybe stick around for dinner.



Rum. Nothing conjures up thoughts of sunny beach days spent in the caribbean quite like it. If you like rum you'll be happy to know that Puerto Rico is home to the Bacardi Rum Factory. You can take a tour and sample some rum. (Sadly we didn't take the tour) From Old San Juan you can take a ferry from Pier 2 to Catano and then a taxi to the factory. The island is also home to Don Q rum, a local favorite. Across from Pier 1 is the Don Q museum. It's a small space that highlights rum making and its history. There are also bartenders to offer samples and discuss the various Don Q rums. A quick but informative stop and there's rum!




One other thing, Puerto Rico has really good coffee. If you love coffee like I do then check out some of the local coffee shops. Cafe Cola'o located at Pier 2 in Old San Juan is a favorite. Really great coffee.

 
The town of Guavate, located 45 minutes from Old San Juan, is known for its lechoneras. (Lechoneras are restaurants that serve lechon asado - roasted pig). On weekends and holidays it's where locals come to meet up with family and friends, listen to music, dance, relax and enjoy some really good food.
Because we wanted to enjoy the scenery on the drive and because our Spanish is muy malo, we hired a local driver/guide to take us to Guavate. Manny was a great resource. On the drive out he told us stories about Puerto Rico's rich history, he  pointed out various points of interest and took us places in the city we might not have gone. Despite it being a rainy day we had a great time visiting the lechoneras of Guavate. With an assist from Manny we ordered lots of delicious food and some cold Medalla beers. Surrounded by happy, festive families, we had a memorable afternoon. If you're a fan of good food and fun times you really have to visit Guavate. It was easily the highlight of this trip.




After all of the running around, eating, drinking and sight seeing, it's a pleasure to return to the peace and quiet that is the Hotel El Convento. Built in 1646 as a convent, the Hotel El Convento is history brought to life. An amazing property, listed as a small luxury hotel of the world, it is one of my favorite places to stay.
From the beautiful courtyard, amazing architecture, to the world class service, I can't recommend it highly enough. It's a great place to stay. The location can't be beat, the service is top notch, personal and caring. The whole experience is worth it even if you only stay for one night and then move to a place near the beach. I can't imagine staying anywhere else when I'm in Old San Juan. Check some of the online booking sites as they list this hotel at times as part of a package deal. Worth looking for. The Hotel El Convento is an experience like no other.







If you are the adventurous type you can book a tour of the El Yunque rainforest and ride a zip line or take a kayak tour of a bioluminescent bay. Whether you prefer shopping and sunning or more adventurous pursuits Puerto Rico has you covered. There is so much to do and see one visit can't possibly cover it all.

Old San Juan is a mix of old world charm and new world amenities. English and Spanish are both spoken and US currency is the standard. There are many great places to visit in Puerto Rico. Old San Juan is just one of them. If you're looking for a fun, low hassle caribbean get away Puerto Rico is just the place. No passport required.

Hotel El Convento

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

What is it about New Orleans?

While there are many things to do in New Orleans besides eat, drink and be merry,  I'm hard pressed to do anything else when I'm there. I love the touristy heart of New Orleans, the French Quarter.



The architecture of the French Quarter is unique. All the wrought iron work and Spanish influence lend it a very European feel. Walking around I can't help but admire the beautiful wrought iron railings and the balconies which are so evocative of this place. As you wend your way through the streets peek into the charming courtyards that lie just beyond the many intricately detailed wrought iron gates. Idyllic gardens, babbling fountains and secluded spaces make for a peaceful retreat in the middle of all the hustle and bustle that surrounds them. You can experience the courtyards for yourself at a few places around the quarter, Brennan's and the Court of Two Sisters come to mind. The courtyard at Pat O'Brien's is another famous landmark and worth a stop for a first time visitor.

When I visit New Orleans I always stay right in the middle of the French Quarter. Now, some may argue that the city is so much more than the Vieux Carre and they are absolutely right. For me though, there is no better place to spend my time in New Orleans than the French Quarter. It's very easy to get a taxi to whatever part of the city you care to see so staying in the quarter in no way limits your options.

My favorite hotel is the Inn on Bourbon Street. It's where I stay whenever I'm lucky enough to be in New Orleans. There are many, many nice places to stay but this one is my personal favorite. Be warned, it can get loud. The hotel faces Bourbon St. and is right in the middle of the action. That's one of the reason I love it. If you need a bit more quiet ask for a courtyard room towards the back. You may get a view of the parking lot but it'll be quiet enough to sleep. However, if it's your first time visiting the Crescent City let me suggest a balcony room overlooking  Bourbon Street. A perfect place from which to view the throngs of people that are part of the ever-changing tapestry of the city. Sit back, relax and listen to the mix of music and voices that rise up out of the quarter. You'll be surrounded by jazz,  Dixieland, street musicians and the buzz of many voices from all over the world. There is no other experience quite like it.

My favorite part of any New Orleans stay is the eating. New Orleans is one of the best food cities. This is no time to count calories people. You can worry about all of that once you're back home. No, now is the time to eat and enjoy all of the fine things that this city has to offer.



Where to begin? Breakfast is a good place to start. A must do for any first time visitor is the Cafe du Monde. Located in the French Market, the Cafe du Monde is famous for their beignets (squares of light, sweet fried dough covered with powdered sugar) and cafe au lait. The coffee they brew contains chicory, a practice that started during the Civil War when coffee was scarce, and continues to this day. It's different than your usual brew but is a  great cup of coffee. Perfect way to start the day.

Next up, lunch. Head over to the Central Grocery for lunch which can only be a muffuletta sandwich. This is an Italian style cold cut sandwich served with an olive salad topping on a round loaf of bread. Its as New Orleans as it gets. No words can truly describe it so just give one a try. You won't be sorry you did.





At this point in the day it's a  good time to do some exploring and walk off some of that fabulous lunch. Head to Jackson Square. Many artist are located there, painting and selling their art. You can walk around to all of the artists exhibits and pick something to take home with you. What better souvenir to take home than an original piece of art. You can also take a walk through the French Market. The market starts at Jackson Square and stretches out from there. There's a flea market, shops, food vendors, a great way to while away time until dinner. If you'd rather not walk you can take a buggy ride around the quarter. You'll be entertained and learn something at the same time. Another good way to kill some time until dinner. (Being in NOLA for me involves a lot of waiting to eat, eating and thinking about where to eat. You laugh, but you'll see.)


Finally, it's dinner time and here there are just too many options to contemplate. But, if you're in the city for the first time, I suggest that you find your way to K. Paul's Louisiana Kitchen. Order a lot and eat some of everything you can. It's all good. All of the creole and Cajun classics are here. Whatever you have is sure to please.  And whatever you do, don't skip dessert.

I don't want to leave out other things I think are can't miss so here's a short list to get you started:

Po' boy sandwiches (fried shrimp is my favorite)
Gumbo (try the Gumbo Shop's chicken and andouille)
Crawfish Étouffée (try it!)
Jambalaya (K Paul's does a nice one)


And last but not least the Shrimp YaYa at La Bayou. I ate this everyday the last time I was in New Orleans. Just go there and have it. Ask for extra bread. I would go back to New Orleans just to have this dish. My personal favorite food in the whole city. Wash it all down with one of the local Abita beers. Heaven.


If you're like us, you'll be planning lunch while eating breakfast and planning dinner while eating lunch. It's that kind of place. In between those great meals there's plenty of time for sipping on a frozen daiquiri and noshing on a po'boy or some fried oysters or beignets. And don't forget the Shrimp Ya-Ya, it makes a great midday snack.

You have to love a city with such great opportunities to eat, drink and just let your hair down and have a good time. When you're planning your next vacation or long weekend, think about New Orleans. You really can't go wrong with a place whose motto is "Laissez les Bon Temps Rouler"! Let the good times roll!

Inn On Bourbon

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Two for the Road

One of the many joys of traveling for me is getting to share the experience with someone else. Obviously it's not necessary, solo travel offers its own reward, but it can be fun to travel with someone else or several someones.

I can't overstate how important it is to know your own travel style. Are you ok flying by the seat of your pants? Do you need to know where you'll be every minute of every day? Figuring this out will be very helpful when and if you decide to travel with someone else. Isn't that one of the big rights of passage of a new relationship, that first trip together. The excitement and anticipation, feeling nervous, not knowing how things will go.

It may not lead to disaster but let's just say a Sally happy-to-not-have-a-plan  and a Johnny must-have-a-plan may not make for the best travel buddies. Best to be of one mind when it comes to travel styles. Not that you need to do every little thing together all the time. It's good to at least be on the same page. It's nice to have someone to split entrees with so you can try more things on the menu, someone to remind you that you may want decaf coffee this late at night and who understands that you can be full from dinner and still want dessert.

I'm lucky. My travel companion likes a lot of the same stuff I do and vice versa. Our travel styles mesh well most of the time. If you find someone that can put up with your travel idiosyncrasies (like my obsessive need to be two hours early for any flight) count your blessings. I was very fortunate in that regard. I'm thankful for it every time we hit the road. Don't let me give you the impression that we never disagree when we travel cause we do. But, that's the exception not the rule. And if it works 90% of the time I'm calling it a win.

Having shared memories is one of the perks of any long term relationship. Making these memories through travel is just another benefit. Looking through photos and reliving the experience we both had. Funny how we were in the same place, doing the same things, but each came away with a different point of view. That's the beauty of it, seeing the world through someone else's eyes, not just colored by your own experiences and expectations.